This is my story of leading an expedition to attempt unclimbed peaks in the Tien Shan Mountains with relatively novice Alpine climbers. I will talk about exploring glaciated valleys where few people have ever been and initial investigations of potential routes up peaks with precious little information from the “map”. Discovering that client capabilities were not quite what they claimed to be during a hurried descent of a summit in a sudden thunderstorm! The sheer thrill of climbing into the unknown and standing on virgin summits. Seeing the clients eyes on stalks as we abseiled down a 200m iceface from ropes looped only round a small bollard of snow! I will also talk about the trials and tribulations of tackling Khan Tengri, the world’s most northerly 7000m peak and how I “ran out of clients” as each turned back one by one for diverse reasons! We also dramatically saved the life of a hypothermic Estonian climber who had been abandoned by him team mates on a remote 6000m summit. The talk will be accompanied by stunning photographs and video material.